Wayne Dalton idrive Troubleshooting Tip #1 - Check the Fuse
Recently, my garage door became off-balance. Whether it's due to the earth shifting or the old cable drum about to fail is still being debated. But nevertheless, it had caused my Wayne Dalton idrive for Torsion Spring to fail. At one point, it stopped moving altogether. When I pushed the up/down button and the profile button, the garage door opener just chirped and beeped. Calling the customer service resolved the problem quickly. They led me though a number of sequence to deduce the problem. In the end, they asked me to remove the white panel on the right by unscrewing two Philip screws on the bottom. The white panel on the right covers the motor control circuit board (see photo below) and the power circuit.
A fuse is on the top left hand corner of the circuit board. It was blown. The customer service explained to me that the fuse it uses is the 250-volt, 4-amp slow-blow fuse (see photo below). It could be purchased at Radio Shack, but they will send me the part for free. To get the idrive going, I drove to the Radio Shack and bought a pack of four fuses.
A few days later, I received the fuses from Wayne Dalton (see photo below). The box included two fuses and instruction on how to replace the fuse.
Did the fuse replacement fix your problem?? I also couldnt figure out why my opener quit working but never called the company.I just started to troubleshoot on my own and found the blown fuse.
Yes. If it completely stops moving, it's likely that the fuse is blown.
Hey, good writeup. I've had my iDrive for 6+ years now and it stopped today. It was 2 beeps (or beep buzz beep buzz) which is usually fixed by hitting the profile button as I've had to do twice before and is the answer in the not so useful troubleshooting, but this time it just gave 2 beeps then 2 more. I went to Radio Shack as well. The part# is 270-1066 for clarification. :)
Thanks for the help Cheng. I have model 3661. I screwed it up when I was working on the doggie door in my garage door. I pulled the disconnect handle. raised the door by hand half way, set a garbage can under it to hold while I worked. When finished, for some stupid reason I manually raised the door, re-engaged the disconnect, and pressed the button on remote. Needless to say, the motor tried to raise the door - struggled beeped and stopped. Then I finally got things straight, manually lowered the door - but then no response to the button. Nothing - dead, dead. I hoped there was a fuse or circuit breaker on the control board, but have no owner's manual. I read your note about a "FUSE" on your model. So, I removed the circuit board, easy, pops off! saw 2 little round fuses. Tested each. One was bad. So I temporarily put a rigged jumper in the slots. Put board back in. PRESTO!! works great. Got replacement fuse at the shack.
Glad to have helped.
Don't worry about the horror stories. They are most likely written by deceptive Chamberlain Internet marketers. See "deceptive post" on this thread: iDrive versus Liftmaster 3800
Thanks so much for the info. For whatever reason my door jammed on the way up. I had to use the release cable to free the door. Then the opener would not opperate. I tried everything I could think of. I went to Wayne Dalton website but could not find the answer. I came to this site and there it was, the fuse..... I went back to Wayne Dalton site and could not find anything about checking the fuse. You guys saved me a service call from the professionals. Thank you again.
I believe I have a problem with the fuse based on what I read here, but when I take off my white cover, the circuit board is not facing me, but is on the top in a horizontal fashion and I can't figure out how to get it out to look for a fuse. Not sure what model I have since the original install slip doesn't say and the manual lists several on the cover. The original unit was installed in 2003 and replaced under warranty a few years ago. It is installed on a 16x7 Wayne Dalton door and I know I have a Torquemaster idrive. Advice? Thanks.
I just found something at the Wayne Dalton Web site that explains what I have to do. Can't anything ever be easy?!?
Well, after I called Wayne Dalton for help with troubleshooting, they told me that my unit does not have a replaceable fuse and sent me a new motor control board (the whole circuit board). I put that in and the unit still didn't work. Another call to Wayne Dalton and they advised me to check my potentiometer gap, which I adjusted, and it still didn't work. I asked if the motor could just be burned out and they said more or less it couldn't be. A third call to Wayne Dalton and the person advised me that my opener was in vacation mode. I explained I already tried turning that off and on and off again, to no avail. Finally, I broke down and called for service from the firm who installed it originally and the tech told me the motor was burned out! I'm getting a new Liftmaster Elite 3850 installed this week. All I will need to pay for is labor - $160. The company who originally installed my iDrive and no longer handles them due to problems they've had with them. I'm pleased they're installing something other than another iDrive and treating it as a warranty replacement.
I have 2 torsion I drives that stopped working at the same time. My driveway and myself was hit by lightning on 6-23-10 at 7:30 am. All that happens when I hit the button is a couple of beeps and nothing. The light comes on but no movement on either doors. Customer service said I need a new board. They were on a brand new house not even a year old, no warranty replacement here. They must have sat on the shelf at Menards too long. I am having a hard time finding new ones, if thats what the problem is. Help
Mine is next I will open it up and check to see if the fuse is open
Thanks for this info! I am an electronic tech and didn't even notice the fuse in the dark of the garage where I mounted the unit. I already had the cover off for other reasons years ago and when I shined my flashlight up there the fuse was dark. It would worry me that something else was wrong as that fuse had to blow hard to be dark, but if it worked for you, and others, and your pic shows the fuse dark too, then it'll probably work for me. I'm going to put mine in when I get home from work.
I looked thru the Wayne-Dalton troubleshooting and this was not listed.
Looks like the fuse would be a GDC-4 for those that are looking for the "normal" fuse part number, that other companies use other than Radio Shack. Amazon has them at Littelfuse 4A GDC Type 5 x 20mm Slo-Blo Fuse 5 Pcs.
I would suggest that no one do what Bob Z did and jumper the fuse.
Well, I followed everybody's advice, got new fuses at Radio Schack, replaced once, nothing, replaced with anotgher new one, and nothing, my unit is still inoperable, beeps and chirps twice, but doesn't move. Any other ideas?
mine is the same. i replaced the fuse and now it beeps twice and then nothing. i got it to do a new profile once, but now only beeps twice.
Mine doesn't have the fuses. What do I do?
What do you mean by it doesn't have a fuse? Was a fuse missing from the fuse holder? Just put one in then. Is there no fuse holder? Did Wayne Dalton design out the fuse on your board?
I would like to punch Wayne Daltons punk ass square in the nose! I bought a house with one of these p.o.s already installed in the garage due to the low ceiling. I love the house and the garage but this opener has been the biggest pain in the ass. Im a pretty handy guy and have been able to fix this thing almost every time the cable comes off of the roller and clogs up in the gears, which has been multiple times but this time i guess i blew a fuse because it just beeps at me. So im following this link and figure out hoe to replace it but Ole Wayne and his infinent wisdom decided to not only use that crazy little round red fuze but has now soldered it into place in a crazy awkward position. Damn you Wayne!!!!
I'm having similar problems to others here in this thread. My iDrive was working great until just recently the opener only beeps about four times without engaging the drive. No movement. I took my cover off only to find my board is very similar to the original posters picture but without a spot for the fuse. Is there anything else I can do?
Is there any tech support still available for this product?
The fuse on my circuit board is located at the front right. It is a circular, (can shaped) 5 amp, 250 volt fuse that is soldered to the circuit board. I have two boards, and both have the same type fuse. One is black and the other is dark red.
You can contact Wayne Dalton directly: http://www.wayne-dalton.com/
I'm starting to see that people are coming here from two different idrive worlds. The original photo showing the fuse holder is for the idrive for Torsion Spring as the original post indicated.
I am guessing that folks with the idrive for TorqueMaster are popping up in this thread wondering where the fuse holder is located at. Based on information presented on this forum, the idrive for TorqueMaster has a round soldered in fuse on the right side of the circuit board. Please confirm...
idrive for Torsion Springs:
idrive for TorqueMaster:
Yes, my idrive is for TorqueMaster. The fuse is circular and soldered to the circuit board on the right side. Sorry if I caused the confusion. Is there another forum for TorqueMaster idrive? I have a motor stuck to the torsion bar.
My drive IS an iDrive for Torsion springs opener, similar to the picture above as well as the original posters picture. It just doesn't have the fuse as his picture shows. I don't find a fuse anywhere else on my iDrive. I could send in a picture if that would help. I don't see that Wayne Dalton supports these anymore. I'm sure mine is a simple fix but just can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
See if you can spot the "circular, (can shaped) 5 amp, 250 volt fuse that is soldered to the circuit board" that Jim mentioned. He said it could be either black or dark red. Maybe Wayne Dalton switched to these fuses in newer boards.
The troubleshooting section says "four beeps" mean one of the following . . . so it may not be a fuse problem.
Even with the breakdowns of the iDrive that I have had, I still like the unit. I have replaced the circuit board 3 times over the 6 years I have had it but still had not other problems. It recently broke... again. This time I found out the circuit board is warranted for 5 years and mine is now out of warranty.
Wayne Dalton still supports the units provided they are not out of the 5 year MFD warranty. Check the bottom of the unit for the Date of Manufacture. If its less than 5 years, they will probably send you a new circuit board.
I have not checked for a fuse yet as the the opener chirps and I would have thought a fuse would shut the whole unit down, apparently not. Its the first thing I will check when I get home. Who knows, the other 3 boards sitting in my shed may not actually be bad. Unfortunately Wayne Dalton won't sell them to you directly.
Does anyone know a supplier. All the service companies I know tell me that Dalton does not support and try to sell me another brand.
OMG. Completely missed the infrared sensor alignment! Door won't operate unless its safe to close after going up. Bad sensor or bad alignment. Where do you find the "Chirp Codes" besides the ones listed above or is that all of them?
The codes are in the manual. Search this web site for PDF manuals for the idrive.
I'm going to go home and take another look at the circuit board to see if the fuse has been slodered onto it. I have checked before but will give one last look. Maybe I'll post a picture this weekend. If I do find one soldered, can I just get a new one and re-solder it?
Initially, I noticed that my sensor must have been kicked and wasn't getting the red light alignment verification and thought that was it. I realigned and still no-go. Still getting the "four beeps".
I don't see anywhere that Wayne Dalton still supports these units as Don S. states. Do you have a number to call? I would like to call them. They have been great with any issues over the years and have sent me one replacement unit without question. I want to keep this one working but am stumped.
Changed fuse on my I drive like suggested on this thread, then when I hit profile button the door raised about 6 inches and the fuse blew again! Any ideas why the fuse would blow? I disengaged the I-drive and the door moves freely up and down, there doesnt seem to be any friction or resistance.
Does anybody know what kind of motor is that? Is it a DC or an AC motor? What is the nominal supply voltage?
Fuse was blowing inconsistently, no action except the beeps. Found shorted wires in the motor's power cable. Fixed the wires and have my awesome garage door opener back!
I just changed the glass fuse, got it at radio shack(250v 4amp slow burn, smaller sized, and the motor started working. It did trip my GFI right after I tried it so I opened the door and closed it a few times and sprayed some good lube on all the wheels and rail and it started working faster. I tried again and then it worked perfect with the opener. I ran it 10 times in a row up and down and they all went perfect. Thank you all for this fix and advice.
I have another post about my idrive being flaky, but this weekend someone was doing work around my condos and took out some electrical feed to the garages, took 3 days to get power back and now my idrive is dead.
now what do I do?
First check to make sure it's not a tripped circuit in your circuit box. If it does come down to the idrive, I suspect that the fuse in the resistor location is a "fuse resistor". It's still a fuse, just looks like a resistor.
I'm no electrical engineer, so I can't really tell you the difference between a fuse vs. a fuse resistor. But a Google search on the topic will yield some results.
Do you have a picture you can post? Also a picture will be handy to bring to Radio Shack to get a replacement, which I guess, without seeing your board, that you will have to solder in.
I'm a handy guy doing work on my boss' garage door opener. At first it would beep twice and stall. I took the cover off and put it back on and it doesn't do anything. I rechecked it and made sure the ground wires, white/black power wire were all connected. I have the circuit board with the two red can fuses. I'm going to do a continuity check today with my multimeter to see if they're good or not. Thank you for all the help. I will post if this was a success or not to help future people out.
Also I read above the wiring to the motor may be shorted so I will inspect that if the fuses are not blown.
There were 2 red can fuses on the circuit board. 1 was good and 1 was bad. Check Radio Shack, Home Depot and local hardware place "that has everything" and they hadn't ever seen anything like it. Guess I need to call a local repair company to buy the part or buy it online.
I replaced the old red cap fuses with an inline fuse holder and a 5x20mm 6.3amp 250 volt fuse from Radioshack. It worked great. After replacing the fuse the door would raise a foot then bind. I had to unwind the springs and rewind them making sure the counter balance cable was in the first groove of the winding drum. After that it worked fine.
The fuse was the problem!
It did not look burned. However, everything worked ok once I changed it.
Thanks for this thread. I have 3 of these - 2 work great, but the one most often used just stopped and chirps once. iDrive for torsion and instead of the fuse holder there is just a wire link - the label is still F1, so looks like WD removed the fuse at some point.
I know this conversation is a few years old but I have some more information regarding the 2-beep problem. While 2 beeps does indicate a calibration/install problem, it doesn't necessarily mean you just need to run calibration. My unit started having the problem after after the door got jammed and unbalanced. After getting it fixed the opener wouldn't work. It would beep twice and either move an inch or do nothing at all. I was convinced the motor was not burned so I opened the covers and evaluated all the moving parts. In the end I learned that the plastic threaded shaft under the left cover moves when the torsion bar spins. I noticed my carrier was all the way to the right. It appeared to me that it was trying to travel to the right more but it ran out of space. I loosened the gears rolled the shaft until the mechanism was all the way to the left. Tightened the gears again and ran the install routine. Viola! That did the trick. It was beeping twice because it couldn't calibrate. I attached a picture of the mechanism I am talking about. The black carrier needs to be on the left with the door down. I hope this will help someone else save their Torquedrive. Mine is 13 years old and working great.
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