iDrive for Torquemaster problem- will lower but not raise
So, by iDrive recently started malfunctioning (I'm aware that I should not be shocked). Before I bin it and buy a real opener, I wanted to at least take a crack at fixing it. Here's what it does:
With the door down, if you push the button to raise it, the motor runs and makes a nasty grinding sound. The door does not move. If you pull the emergency release, you can raise the door easily with one hand, and if you let go it does not fall. It gets slightly tighter up near the top of its range of motion, but not much. If you now release the emergency handle (with the door up) and push the button, the door will close fully and smoothly. If you then hit the button again, the motor grinds and the door does not move.
Obvious diagnosis is something is stripped in the interface between the motor and the shaft, but I find it odd that it works fine going one way but grinds going the other. To check some other frequent problems, I THINK the door is balanced fine, it does not seem to be a fuse, the position sensor is in the appropriate spot (all the way left when down, all the way right when up) ... any ideas?
Did you try re-profiling it?
Did you recently disassemble the idrive and this started after that? Or did it just started doing it all on it's own?
If you did disasemble it recently, it may be because you re-engaged it at a different position than where you disengaged it. If this is the case, take a look at this thread:
OK, I tried this earlier today, apparently it didn't take:
I have a W-D iDrive for Torquemaster that is not working. I'm aware that I should not be shocked by this. Before I just toss the stupid thing, I want to at least try to fix it. here's what it is doing:
With the door fully closed, if you hit the button to lift the door, the motor turns, the door does not move, and there is a mechanical grinding/slipping sound, like teeth are not quite engaging. If you pull the emergency release and raise the door by hand, then re-engage the iDrive and push the button, the door lowers smoothly and fully, with the motor arm rotating into the downward position and locking the door down. If you then push the button again to raise it, the same thing happens as before (grinding noise, no door movement).
It does NOT seem to be a fuse, as the motor runs.
It does NOT seem to be a door balance/resistance issue, as the door moves smoothly, evenly and easily by hand, and will remain in position if you let go of it partway up.
I don't think it is the detent screw on the side, as the motor can rotate freely (though, I'm no really clear on what it is supposed to do, so I suppose it could be too loose).
Turning the motor by hand (when engaged), it seems to get tight at one point, then slip freely for another rotation, then get tight and slip again. I'm guessing that something is stripped/stripping, but I can't access it to see.
Any hope? Or is this thing toast?
Sorry, this is a duplicate of another thread. I didn't anticipate the delay in posting. I did not reprofile it, but I'll try that when I get home. The slide is in the correct position (left while down, right while up) and I think it is a problem with the motor stripping a gear or not engaging a gear correctly, but I'll try reprofiling it.
Ok, reprofiling does nothing, you just get a grinding sound, like the teeth of the gears are not quite engaged. Is there any way to access that mechanism?
Motor is in the arm that lower and raises. From the motor, you can trace back to the gears. The end of the arm unscrews, allowing you access to the motor.
OK, got the motor the whole way off and I could look at the worm and gear and the mechanism. The worm itself looks like the section of tooth in the middle is worn down. The gear looks like it may be worn on one side, too, but I can't tell if that is by design or from wear.
Any idea where I can get a replacement worm for this? I'm guessing that it will engage gear enough to lift the motor assembly, but as soon as it meets resistance from the weight of the door it starts skipping off of the gear and grinding.
I just did a search for "wayne dalton idrive parts" and found this web site:
I have never ordered from them before, but their web page shows idrive parts here:
Seems like most idrive parts are now discontinued. :-(
Yeah, it looks like fleabay or similar might be the best route. That, or a complete replacement ... as I'm sure something else is due to fail soon. These things seem to fall apart between 5-10 years, and this one is like 8 or so years old.
Did your message disappear? Read the Forums FAQ.
Spam Control | * indicates required field
No TrackBacks yet. TrackBack can be used to link this thread to your weblog, or link your weblog to this thread. In addition, TrackBack can be used as a form of remote commenting. Rather than posting the comment directly on this thread, you can posts it on your own weblog. Then have your weblog sends a TrackBack ping to the TrackBack URL, so that your post would show up here.
Messages, files, and images copyright by respective owners.
2636 Users Online
Copyright © 2004 - 2017. All Rights Reserved.